What to eat in Friuli Venezia Giulia

The cuisine of Friuli Venezia Giulia is the result of a gastronomic tradition strongly influenced by the foreign dominations that have characterized the history of this region over the centuries, and by its geographical characteristics. Friuli Venezia Giulia is, in fact, a territory that extends from the sea to the mountains, and the local culinary preparations offer a variety of dishes characterized by a strong connection to the territory. 

Food market

From a historical and traditional point of view, which also concerns gastronomy, the region can be somehow divided into two parts: the western part, occupied by Friuli, including the provinces of Pordenone, Udine and a part of that of Gorizia, and the eastern part of Venezia Giulia, that includes the rest of the province of Gorizia and Trieste.

The Friulian cuisine is more rustic and simple with many soups, game, polenta and gnocchi, while the culinary traditions of the rest of the region involve more fish and show more of the Austro-Hungarian influences. 

The most popular products of Friuli, are the San Daniele ham, widely renowned around the world. and the tasty cow's milk Montasio cheese, produced in the region since 1200. Both are widely used as starter in mixed platters.

Ham plate

But, let's start this culinary trip from the soups, a constant in Friulian cuisine. 

The two most famous ones are the Paparot, a really tasty mix of polenta and spinach, and the Jota, a soup made with sauerkraut, potatoes, beans and sausages that boasts many variations depending on the location. 

Plum gnocchi are probably the most peculiar dish of the Friulian gastronomic tradition, widespread also in Gorizia and Trieste. These sweet gnocchi arrived in Friuli in the early decades of the 20th century, when the territory was under the Austro-Hungarian dominion, as Marillenknödel, originally stuffed with dried apricots. They soon underwent the variant with plums, of which the area along the Slovenian border was rich. They are dressed with cinnamon and can be served both as first course or dessert.

The combination may sound weird, but these are definitely a must try!

Plum gnocchi

On the coast and especially in Grado, fish broths are quite popular. Also based on fish, the Busara, a dish made of shrimps cooked with pepper, breadcrumbs and tomatoes that was once served on ships.

On the other hand, meat is the main ingredient in the hinterland: hares, wild boars, deer and game birds are especially enjoyed, flavored with spices and served with polenta. 

A pork sausage very similar to Cotechino, made with pig's snout, minced and mixed with spices, locally called Musetto and traditionally served with brovada (turnips macerated in pomace) is one of the most ancient regional recipes. While the delicious Cevapčići, originally from the Balkan peninsula, are cylindrical sort meatballs of spicey beef, pork and lamb, grilled or cooked on the BBQ.

Vegetarians and cheese lovers should taste the Frico, a potato and cheese pie characterized by a crispy crust on the outside and a soft and tasty heart. An easy, tasty and substantial recipe, which has its roots in popular tradition and is still an irresistible and beloved specialty (and a personal favourite).

Frico with polenta

The regional pastries are often influenced by the Austrian art of bakery, so it is very easy to find some local versions of the typical Austrian recipes such as the strucolo (from strudel) or the Kranz. 

Pastry shop in Trieste

As dessert, if you are in Trieste, you should probably taste the Karst zavata, a generously sized millefeuille made up of three layers of puff pastry filled with custard whipped with a small part of cream and covered with powdered sugar. A real treat for those with a sweet tooth...well...just for anyone, actually!

But if you are visiting the region during the Christmas holidays you should also taste the Gubana, the Prestniz or the Putizza, all deliciously made with plenty of nuts, dried fruits, sweet spices and a touch of alcohol!

Buon appetito! (or Bon pitic if you are in Friuli).