Italy off the beaten path: the historic lagoon town of Grado

 

Grado, Island of the Sun

Grado is a small lagoon town in Friuli Venezia Giulia in the province of Gorizia. Connected to the mainland by a thin strip of land, it is a famous tourist and spa resort also known as the Island of the Sun.

It is seen as a miniature Venice, full of narrow streets and houses close to each other; one of those towns to calmly explore in a day.

Founded in Roman times as a merchant port of Aquileia, Grado owes its name to the typical Roman steps that facilitated the disembarkation of passengers and goods from ships. Always a center of large commercial activities, its castrum was built in the 4th century, where the inland populations who escaped the onslaught of the barbarians found refuge. 

The Patriarch himself moved its headquarters from Venice to the lagoon city which he embellished with buildings of worship and with the construction of the Duomo. The return of the Patriarchate to Venice in 1451 meant the beginning of difficult years for the island, marked by numerous conflicts until 1797, when the city passed under Austrian rule to then return to Italy just at the end of World War I.

Campo dei Patriarchi, Grado

The perfect place to start your tour of the city is certainly its historic center, a labyrinth of narrow streets and picturesque courtyards characterized by Venetian charm and surrounded by colorful fishermen's houses. 

The Campo dei Patriarchi is the hub of the late Roman and Venetian period; here is the Basilica of Sant’Eufemia, cathedral of the Patriarchate of Aquileia for more than 8 centuries, at least until the title was ceded to Venice. Restored in the first half of the 20th century, the façade has a beautiful 15th century bell tower with a copper statue of the Archangel San Michele, which has long become the symbol of the old city.

Basilica of Sant'Eufemia, tower bell, Grado

The interior of the building is divided into three naves by elegant marble columns and has a splendid floor with mosaics from the 6th century. On the right side of the Basilica there is the Lapidary with Roman and Paleochristian finds, while on the left side is the Baptistery, octagonal in shape which preserves three sarcophagi and Roman funerary altars from the III BC. The precious Treasure of the Cathedral is also preserved in the Basilica, with the relics of the patron saints of the city Ermacora and Fortunato.

Basilica of Sant'Eufemia, Grado

Basilica of Sant'Eufemia, Grado

Another masterpiece to see in Grado is undoubtedly the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie, a religious destination for the local population, built in the 4h century in an early Christian style. 

Basilica Santa Maria delle Grazie, Grado

Basilica Santa Maria delle Grazie, Grado

Once out of the church enjoy the picturesque alleys of the city centre.

Grado, city centre

Grado, city centre

Grado, city centre

In Piazza Marin, crossing long glass walkways, you can admire the ruins of the Basilica della Corte,  some sarcophagi and the remains of the walls of the building, brought to light in 1902, thanks to the renovation of the square as well as the Town Hall Gardens.

Continuing towards Campo dei Santi Ermagora and Fortunato you'll reach the Lungomare Nazario Sauro, 11 kilometers beaches with splendid villas, lovely gardens, some hotels and exclusive shops: from here the panorama extends to the open sea and on clear days you can even see the riviera of Trieste and the coast of Istria.

Grado, seafront

Grado, seafront

TIPS AND INFO:

1. Grado can be visited in a one day trip from Trieste and associated with a visit to ancient city of Aquileia. 

2. Grado is the final destination of the Alpe Adria trail which starts from Salzburg, passes Carinthia and crosses the whole of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, including the beautiful towns of Cividale del Friuli and Aquileia.

3. While in Grado, do not miss the chance to taste the "boreto alla gradese", a white fish broth that has ancient origins, a poor traditional dish of great taste, now served in the best restaurants.