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Villages of France: Collonges La Rouge

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About twenty kilometers from Brive-la-Gaillarde , on the border between Limousin and Quercy, Collonges-la-Rouge offers an original and unusual spectacle, both for the splendor of its buildings in purple sandstone, against the contrasting green of the valley and for the wealth of its heritage. Collonges-la-Rouge Mornings are probably the best time to visit it; sitting for a moment on the terrace of a café, listening to the village gradually awakening and admiring the sunlight that magnifies this architectural gem. Collonges-la-Rouge The village has very ancient origins. Indeed, the monks of the Charroux abbey in Poitou founded a priory here in the 8th century following a donation from Count Roger de Limoges. The priory was integrated by the Viscount de Turenne in 844 that attracted, under his protection, a population of peasants, artisans and traders. Around its buildings, protected by a fence, the community thrived on pilgrims, heading to Compostela via Rocamadour, as a source of incom...

Villages of the Dordogne: Beynac

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Beynac In the heart of the Périgord Noir, in the Dordogne Valley, Beynac-et-Cazenac is one of the “most beautiful villages in France”.  Built on limestone cliffs, it has a unique character, surely more defensive than La Roque Gageac but more open than Domme , with its castle clinging to the cliff and overlooking the entire valley.  Beynac The “magic trio” of Beynac, namely the river, the village and the castle, is somewhat a trademark, which contributes to the reputation of this charming village of just over 500 inhabitants. Beynac The small medieval village of Beynac-et-Cazenac enchants the visitors with its old cobbled streets and squares, its stately chapel which has become the Church of Sainte Marie, its Calvary overlooking the Dordogne and its views of exceptional beauty. Beynac Beynac Beynac Beynac Beynac Walking through the narrow and steep alleys, amidst houses with lauze roofs and blond facades, you can reach the top of the village, from where the imposing Beynac cas...

Villages of the Dordogne: Brantome

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Gateway to the Périgord-Limousin Regional Natural Park , Brantôme is the pearl of the Périgord Vert. Its position on an island nestled below a cliff, between two arms of the Dronne river, earned it the nickname "Venice of the Périgord". Brantome Brantôme has the appearance of a magical city that reveals its beauty around its medieval alleys: its imposing abbey, its beautiful Renaissance style houses and its gardens crossed by canals project the visitor back in time. Brantome The majestic Benedictine abbey, founded at the end of the 8th century, rises by the river, watched over by its Romanesque bell tower (one of the oldest in France), while, behind the limestone cliff, a little jewel shelters: the remains of the troglodyte monastery including the enigmatic Cave of the Last Judgment adorned with two monumental bas-reliefs.   Bell Tower, Brantome  Last Judgement cave, Brantome  Saint Sicarius fountain, Brantome It is said that Charlemagne consecrated the abbey a...

Castles of the Dordogne: Chateau des Milandes

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Built at the end of the 15th century and later transformed by François de Caumont out of love for his wife, the Chateau des Milandes became famous thanks to Joséphine Baker who acquired it in 1937. Often called a “woman's castle” because of its history and its architecture with soft and harmonious lines, it perfectly combines the spirit of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Chateau des Milandes A stately chapel to the south of the castle was built in 1503. True gem of Gothic art, this funeral chapel  chapel, mutilated during the Revolution, is now under restoration. During excavations inside the building, 16th century paintings and wall frescoes were discovered; a true unsuspected and inestimable treasure. A painting restoration project has been launched by the owner of the castle, to safeguard this heritage. Chapel, Chateau des Milandes Let’s not forget the architectural beauty of the Château des Milandes with its delicate, regular and elegant lines and its typically Gothic so...

Castles of the Dordogne: Château de Fenelon

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Château de Fénelon The Château de Fénelon is a listed historic monument, located in the Dordogne department on the heights of the town of Saint-Mondane from where it dominates the valleys of the Dordogne and Bouriane. The castle was the birthplace of François de Salignac de la Motte Fénelon (much better known by his name of writer Fénelon) who lived during the reign of the Enlightenment of Louis XIV and became Archbishop of Cambrai. The castle draws up its powerful architecture behind three fortified enclosures whose defensive system has been kept intact. The front door was defended by a first gatehouse. The attackers then had to bypass a second defensive wall which left them uncovered and led them to a second 'chatelet' defending access to the foot of the castle. The fortress played a strategic role during the Hundred Years War and was besieged on numerous occasions. Château de Fénelon Main courtyard, Château de Fénelon Well (90m deep), Château de Fénelon The castle was then...

Hidden gems of the Dordogne

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I fell in love with Sarlat the second I got my eyes on it, I’ve stood in awe at the beauty of the many castles of the Dordogne Valley more than once, and I’ve tasted the best French food at the local markets, but it’s the hidden gems of the Dordogne that genuinely took my heart and made me decide to move here. From scenic villages of medieval stone houses built against rocky walls to hidden churches lost in the lushest and most untouched countryside, going off the beaten path in the Dordogne truly pays off. This is what makes the Dordogne so interesting, so enchanting...so much a place to deeply fall in love with. And, since I moved here 6 years ago, I’ve had the time to discover plenty of hidden gems on the way, especially over our hikes through this astonishing countryside.  So I have created this list of my personal favourite places that often fall off the radar of the visitor.  Cheylard Chapel  in St Genies Cheylard chapel, Saint Geniès The Cheylard Chapel, on its...

Walking Paris: the Promenade Plantée

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We lived in Paris for 6 months a couple of years ago and, during this time, we made a point of making the most of this amazing city... Because Paris is really a surprisingly amazing city, more than any travel guide or magazine will ever tell you. And it is lively. And so full of art. And so deeply French! During those 6 months we tried to optimize our time and to feed our love for art. But, although we deeply loved the amount and variety of museums that the Ville Lumière displays, I have to admit that one of my dearest memories of our time in Paris comes from when we walked the Promenade Plantée . Let me explain you why. The Promenade Plantée is a 4,5 Km park walkway starting behind the Opera Bastille above the Viaduc des Arts , ending at the Bois de Vincennes and passing through the Jardin de Reuilly, ancient railway tunnels and the Jardin Charles Peguy. Place de la Bastille It is an extraordinary journey above street level (at least for the first part) among Parisians...