Viticulture has a long history in the
Dordogne: the vine arrived here with the emergence of the Gallo- Roman civilization. And, although in the 12th century production was often neglected in favor of food crops, the wine trade resumed in the 17th century. The vineyard extended throughout the department until the late 19th century when the outbreak of
phylloxera destroyed most of the vineyards reducing the whole surface to one fifth of the total.
The vine came back to life in the 20th century on both banks of the river Dordogne in the area of
Bergerac and Duras, but it’s in the last 20 years that wine production became more refined and reached a wider attention with various wines awarded in French competitions and the advance of organic and biodynamic techniques.
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| Vines, Dordogne |
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| Vines, Dordogne |
Vineyards now cover more than 12,000 hectares under 9 appellations and produce 5 different types of wine: red, rosé, dry white, medium sweet white (moelleux) and dessert wine. The delicious variety of these lesser-known local wines and the strict bond with their terroir and the local gastronomy make them an absolute must-try, especially for those gourmet travelers that like to explore local cuisine or simply for those that appreciate excellent value for money!
The major appellations (
AOC) are the Bergerac and Duras. Here wine production involves Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, as the main grapes with the addition of Semillon or Muscadelle for the whites and sweet ones and Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec for the reds.
These are perfect all-round wines and excel when paired with a mixed BBQ, with pork, chicken and most of the regional dishes.
Both towns have small wine museums that are worth a visit.
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| Red wine glass |
But one of the most popular local wines is the
Monbazillac, a sweet nectar produced from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes affected by
botrytis cinerea. This exquisitely sweet wine is the perfect match for foie gras, hence being a favourite among locals and visitors. If you want to learn a bit more about this wine and its history, we suggest you visiting the
Chateau de Monbazillac, which houses the local cooperative cave.
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| Chateau de Monbazillac |
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| Cellar, Chateau de Monbazillac |
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| Cellar, Chateau de Monbazillac |
Moving around the municipality of Bergerac, is one of the most interesting wine and the oldest vineyard of the area, the Bordeaux blend based,
Pecharmant AOC. Characterized by an intense yet elegant nose this wine shows a powerful structure, a subtle richness of flavors and an excellent capacity to age.
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| Red grapes, Dordogne |
The three appellations of
Montravel (Montravel, Côtes de Montravel and Haut Montravel), cover the area west of Bergerac where the limestone soils play a strategic role in its peculiar minerality. The white version (my personal favourite and the most produced) is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle. The wines demonstrate a unique nobility with a fine personality and a fresh backbone that makes them an excellent companion for shellfish or a great choice as aperitif on a sunny day.
Two minor appellations, though worth the try if you are in the region, are the Saussignac and the Rosette. The Rosette vineyards extends north of Bergerac and share a similar story with Pecharmant: despite being among the oldest vineyards in the area, the production of this wine was almost abandoned after the outbreak of philloxera until 4 proud and brave producers decided to save it. The wine comes from sandy soil and has a peculiar "moelleux" character, with a delicate sweetness made of white flowers and fruits. The Saussignac appellation is also land of courageous producers; lots of them practice organic viticulture an they all share an innate and deep respect for their small terroir and the little gem they produce: a wine that comes in white, red and moelleux.
For more info about the Dordogne region, check out
our posts.
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