Italy off the beaten track: the medieval hamlet of Farnese

Italy is our native country and, although we have decided to live abroad, it is a country that we deeply love, extraordinarily rich in art, history, natural beauty and food and wine traditions. 

Being an expat is not always easy, but it has the advantage that every time we return to visit our families, we always find the time to explore the country like tourists and to discover the little gems, often off the beaten path, which make this country so unique.

A part of Italy, we particularly love is the Tuscia, an area once inhabited by the Etruscans, in northern Lazio. Here the charming villages, with their picturesque stone houses and narrow alleys, have preserved a good part of their medieval-Renaissance physiognomy.  

One of these is the medieval hamlet of Farnese, a tiny village, counting not even 1700 inhabitants, beautifully perched on a tuffaceous cliff. 

Its name derives from the Farnia tree known around Europe as peduncolate oak and depicted on the city coat of arms.

Farnese, coat of arms

Apparently the name Farnese has then consequently been acquired by the famous homonymous noble family that had in the area its oldest feudal possessions and that became so influential during the Renaissance.

Nowadays not that much is left of that prestigious historic presence, if you exclude the main palace (that has though been divided in several private apartments throughout the centuries) and the old bridge that was used by the family to reach the gardens (and it's now an exhibition centre).

Farnese

But even if the village has lost part of its historic and artistic features it still remains a lovely place where to stop a few days to relax and explore the surroundings. It is also located in a strategic position between the volcanic lake of Bolsena and the sea and close to many interesting old Etruscan necropolis.

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Farnese

Nature lovers won't be disappointed as the village is surrounded by the Selva del Lamone, a natural reserve perfect for walks. The main trail is the Sentiero dei Briganti, a path crossing the Selva, that follows the traces of the late XIX century brigand Tiburzi (that seems to have some connections with one of my ancestors, but this is another story!)

Olpeta stream

Olpeta stream

TIPS AND INFO:

SLEEP:
There a few options in town  where to stay overnight such as the Residenza Farnese, the Agriturismo Borgo Il Ducato, the Ostello Ortensi.

But, if you are looking for a place to stay in Rome, check out this website where you'll find a wide choice of lovely self-catering solutions. 

EAT:
In the old part of the town you will find La Piazzetta del Sole a little gourmet gem that has its strengths in the surprising match of the freshest local products and the chef's creativity (a must try!). 

Also don't miss the homemade ice cream from the bar in the Rocca square (facing the main church).

Oh and don't forget to check out the best local produce: great quality olive oil!

DRINK:
And finally, while in the area you should taste the local wines; so try the whites from Montefiascone or Pitigliano and the sweet Aleatico di Gradoli.